Violins

I have been making violins for about 8 years now and have completed about 27 so far. the violin is a completely different animal that the others. The tone and volume depend heavily on the particular piece(s) of wood in the top and back and how they are graduated. It is truly an art form rather than a prescription. You must listen to the wood while carving it and again during assembly. if an area becomes too thin it stops ringing and is good only for firewood. I use a Guarneri format which is slightly larger and deeper than Stradavari but give a darker, more mellow tone. I’ve tried other profiles by Stainer and Amati but come back to this one.

My mentor was Arthur Conner who was 95 when he died in April 2020. He was a national treasure and had been building for 60 years. He could just look at a piece of wood and tell you weather it is worth using or not and could look at a finished violin from across the room and tell whether is is good or not so good by the way the finish has been absorbed. Some of his wisdom includes; “Split out” wood is far better than milled wood every time. The density of annular rings has very little to do with the worth of the final instrument and the finish never enhances the tone. It was an honor to know him and pleasure to be his friend.

The best a new violin will ever sound is without any finish (white). The finish protects the wood but degrades the tone. The size, shape and placement of the f-holes is critical the the tone and volume as is the tone bar.

**Koa Fiddle** This is my first Koa Violin. Koa is an excellent tone wood for guitars so I thought that I would try a Koa fiddle. I searched the internet Luthier sites for opinions. The advice from almost everyone was “Don’t Bother”. Not one to take advice often, I tried one with a Koa top, sides and an Indian Rosewood back for better sound reflection. I used a Koa pegged scarfed to a maple neck because Koa is not nearly as strong as Maple. The fiddle is terrific. Better than many of the traditional wood fiddles by a wide margin. I haven’t used it in a Jam yet because the jams have all been suspended but it is very loud and even. $2300 with case

**5-String Koa Fiddle**. The first Koa fiddle went so well, I thought I’d try another. This is a 5-string with a low C-string. It is like a combo Violin and Viola. This on has a Maple neck (to support the extended peg head) with Koa back and sides. It is even better than the 4-string. The low C is loud and rich. I have played this one at an outdoor gig and it held its own. I will be building more Koa fiddles. SOLD

This is a white violin (no color added to finish) with a Red Spruce (West Virginia) top and Sugar Maple (Vermont) back. This violin is very loud and clear and will hold its own in any Bluegrass jam. It is built on a Guarani profile this is somewhat larger and deeper than a strad. Ebony appointments and hard case. This is a great four-string fiddle. $2000 with case

This is an early five-string with an Engleman top and Maple Sides and back. The 5th string is a low C so it’s like having a combination Violin and Viola. This instrument would serve an intermediate player who wants to play a 5-string. Ebony appointments and hard case. $1500 with case

This is a super-nice red four-string. it is loud and mellow. Will work for intermediate or advanced player. Striking look and great tone and volume. Ebony appointments and hard case. $1650 with case

This is a German violin I bought unfinished. I regraduated the top and finished it using Boxwood pegs and ebony fingerboard. The instrument is very clear and loud but a little harsh in tone. A good transition violin for an advanced beginner to intermediate player who wants a five string. Easy to play. includes case. $1200

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